Let it hang loose — embrace your natural strands

By Liz Keeney

Lather. Rinse. Repeat. Turn on the hair dryer and plug in that flat iron. Day in and day out, we… Lather. Rinse. Repeat. Turn on the hair dryer and plug in that flat iron. Day in and day out, we do substantial damage to our hair for the sake of beauty. We fry it with straighteners and hair dye and then make futile attempts to rectify the damage with expensive serums and leave-in conditioners.

Until a few months ago, I too was caught in the cycle. But then it occurred to me — why fight my natural hair when I should just learn to work with what I have?

Thus began the embracing of my vengeful curls — but I wasn’t the only one welcoming the inner wave. All over Hollywood, curly girls are stepping away from the heating products. From Taylor Swift’s tendrils and Blake Lively’s red-carpet coastal waves to Esperanza Spalding’s fabulous Grammy afro last year: Curls are back.

To be honest, I was initially hesitant about leaving my hair natural. I was born into a family of repressed curly girls; both my mother and younger sister have spent years trying to straighten out their curly hair — even encouraging me to do the same. But now all three of us have crossed over to the curly-girl lifestyle.

Aside from the obvious time-saving perks, letting your hair go natural is extremely beneficial in many ways. For one, your hair will be so much healthier. By not straightening daily, I quickly saw my hair become thicker and shinier. Within two months of going natural, I noticed my hair was significantly healthier, and now, six months later, I can say my hair has never been better.

Not only is going natural good for your hair, it’s good for your wallet. By not blow-drying and straightening your hair every day, you’ll cause fewer split ends, meaning you’ll be able to cut back on trips to the salon. Also, that electricity bill will decrease as you save all of the energy usually spent on keeping those various heating products plugged in.

Now that you know the benefits, here’s how to go about becoming a curly girl. The first step is to figure out just what kind of hair texture you have. Regardless of how straight you think your hair is, with a little encouragement, most girls can coax some texture out of their hair.

In order to discover your hair type, let your hair air-dry and skip applying any hair products the next time you shower. Take note of how curly or wavy it gets, how thick it is, whether it gets greasy or dry — all without interference. By getting to know your own hair, you will be better prepared to find what works best for your type.

naturallycurly.com divides hair into four types: wavy, curly, curly-kinky and kinky. Within each type there are subtypes that present a narrowed scope, which widen the opportunity of finding a match for your seemingly unique hair. Be sure you find the specific category that corresponds to your hair; not all curls are made the same, and each type requires different product and treatment.

This brings me to the next step: getting the right cut. The secret to a good curly-hair cut is having your stylist cut while your hair is dry. The thing is, not all stylists know how to do this. So finding the right stylist for your curly hair is important. Luckily, naturallycurly.com continues to be helpful, listing salons with stylists who know how to cut curly hair.

A few in Pittsburgh are Salon Cercone, Philip Pelusi, the Beauty Villa and Kelly Elaine Inc. If you’re lucky, you can visit the mecca of all curly girl salons: Devachan in New York City. Devachan was founded by Lorraine Massey, co-author of curl bible “Curly Girl: The Handbook” and one of the instigators of the natural hair movement.

Regardless of where you go, after you get the right cut, you need to start thinking about styling techniques. Ask your stylist what he or she thinks your routine should be, but take the advice with a grain of salt and explore other options yourself. It’s your hair; you need to find out what works for you.

One of the biggest things to consider is how you wash your hair. Many stylists will tell you that once you wash your hair, you don’t have to touch it for another week. Others will tell you to wash it but avoid shampoo.

The belief is that shampoo contains sulfates (the ingredients that makes shampoos sudsy) which are damaging to wavy hair. Some women have given up on shampoo entirely, calling their effort the “no ‘poo’” movement.

Going shampoo-free can be frustrating though, because after a couple of days, your hair looks … well, awful. This is especially true during the summer or if you exercise frequently. Sweaty hair just needs to be washed. I’ve never been able to make it more than a week without cracking, but some women swear by it. It can take a while for your hair to adjust, but if you’re willing to stick it out, your hair will be all the more healthy.

I think that finding the right balance is key. I usually only shampoo every other day, and I try to use a sulfate-free product. My mother only shampoos once a week, but wets her hair daily. Some women only get their hair wet once a week, wrapping it in a shower cap or old T-shirt before getting into the shower. Kristin Ess of thebeautydepartment.com has a great list of hair regimens for you to try.

I also recommend investing in a dry shampoo for days when your hair gets too greasy. This is especially true if, like me, you have bangs, which tend to look greasier than the rest of your hair. I’m currently using Pssssst! for wavy or curly hair by Freeman, but Suave recently came out with a line of dry shampoos that look promising. Baby powder also works to hide grease if you just sprinkle a little on your roots.

Next, invest in some curling products to make styling easier. Massey came out with a highly recommended line of products called DevaCurl. I also swear by MoroccanOil’s curl defining cream. However, these can both be a little pricey, so look for curling creams at the drugstore. Garnier Fructis’ Wonder Waves mousse is a good product that will suit your budget.

You should also look for a good serum to tame frizz, the number one enemy of curly girls the world over.

Once you have a head full of natural waves, it’s time to decide how to style them. While I love to leave my hair down, there are a lot of chic updos to try. And since most updos require that you curl your hair beforehand for better hold, you’re already one step ahead.

For those days when your hair just isn’t lying right, it’s okay to cheat by tweaking sections with a small curling iron. Just be sure to put it on the lowest heat setting to avoid damage.

The overall idea is to enjoy your natural texture, regardless of whether it’s curly or wavy, thick or thin.