Global cuisine with an identity crisis

Spice Cafe

328 Atwood St., Lower Level of India Garden

(412) 682-1900

11…

Spice Cafe

328 Atwood St., Lower Level of India Garden

(412) 682-1900

11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Sunday through Saturday

Spice Cafe, an atmospheric global eatery on Atwood Street, feels like a house divided – part classic, collegiate bar, part sophisticated urban bistro. Fortunately, it’s an identity crisis that still benefits the patron, serving up stylish fare and fine drinks in a lush and inviting environment.

The new restaurant, located underneath India Garden, will no doubt lure the unadventurous barfly inside with an impressive selection of draft beers, cheap appetizers and a big-screen television – all tantalizing amenities for football nights. Half-priced food and jaw-dropping drink specials (last week, $1.50 Arrogant Bastard and Samuel Adams Winter Lager) will certainly get Spice Cafe added to the lists of experienced bar-hoppers.

Those who decide to sit down and have a real meal will find an eclectic mix of globally fused cuisine. Drawing on elements of Japanese, Indian, Polynesian, Caribbean, Mexican and American cooking, Spice Cafe’s menu is certainly creative, and will have you trying to envision the various tastes advertised.

Someone deserves a pat on the back for turning the former Pub I.G. into a beautifully designed space with ambience. The dark wood paneling and dim lighting create a lush, tropical atmosphere, reminiscent of a beachfront bar after sunrise. The room glows with the aid of creative lighting – soft, well-positioned overheads, hanging colored lanterns and corner lights lining the walls. A variety of international masks and artifacts decorate the space, lending to the theme of global fusion.

The mood is nearly ruined, though, by a few unnecessary distractions: the blaring sounds of popular radio and a gigantic television showing ESPN. Sure, these things would be great for a Friday night bar-hop or Monday Night Football. But during a quiet afternoon lunch, they severely upset the vibe that the room and the menu create. Try taking a nice meal seriously with Nelly rapping in your ear.

As an appetizer, we sampled the empanadas, a Spanish pastry stuffed with potatoes and Chorizo sausage. Very presentable, the empanadas were delivered swiftly, accompanied by a fresh garnish and a salsa dipping sauce held in an espresso cup – a nice touch. The pastries were hot and crispy, and gave all indications of freshness. However, there was doubt in our minds regarding the nationality of the sausage; it tasted like fennel and was presumably Italian, not Spanish.

The Tandoori chicken wrap was massive and loaded with fresh vegetables. While we were unable to locate the advertised yogurt marinade in it, we did detect a sort of vinaigrette dressing which, while tasty, made the wrap soggy by the meal’s end. The mango-glazed salmon was a healthy portion, too, and the fish was done just right. The glaze was delicious, as was its strange and wonderful side dish, Yucca mash (like mashed potatoes, but denser).

In general, the food was hot, fresh and good. But as I sat in the ambient Spice Cafe, eating Yucca mash, with rap music in the air and basketball on the giant TV, I couldn’t help but feel a little confused.

The restaurant seems to share this sense of displacement. Spice Cafe, still in its infancy, feels unsure of its fate. It is trying to be two things at once: neighborhood bar and an eclectic restaurant. Based on its unique menu and stylish atmosphere, we suggest (and hope) it concentrate on the latter. Beer and wings are easy to find in Oakland. A menu as creative and fun as Spice Cafe’s is not.

Managing Editor Christian Schoening contributed her discerning palette to this review.