Meanwhile, back at the farm, a younger generation grows

Justin Seaman hunched over, sleeves rolled over his farmer’s-tanned shoulders, deftly plucking… Justin Seaman hunched over, sleeves rolled over his farmer’s-tanned shoulders, deftly plucking strawberries from under a plant’s juicy green leaves between red brick row homes and a few feet from the speeding cars of Oakland Avenue.

Far back at the picnic table in the garden of Pitt’s Plant to Plate student group, it’s difficult to hear the din of the city through the morning-glory wall that has grown up on one side. Bread made fresh this morning by Seaman, the group’s president, crumbled under his knife. He prepared a snack of bread, apple butter, peaches and strawberries, which were more petite and juicier than those found at supermarkets, often shipped from California. The strawberries came from the group’s garden, situated in an empty lot, with raised wooden beds stretching about 20 feet back to larger flora, which obscure the small greenhouse.

The group uses the space to teach students about urban farming and tries to be a resource for Pitt students.

“It’s a city school and we do have these lots, and other people live in these cramped conditions and are growing their own food. To have them get a resource to see how it’s done and learn how to do it — or just participate in one — I think is a great opportunity,” Seaman said.

Plant to Plate and other urban farming groups such as Grow Pittsburgh have sprouted in the last decade in the city. Although urban gardens have existed in the past — many families made victory gardens during World War II — the modern environmental movement has placed a heavier modern emphasis on local and urban food production. Like victory gardens, these urban food operations often have purposes greater than farming for fresh supplies — they’re community builders.

Julie Pezzino, executive director of Grow Pittsburgh, said that none of the organization’s nine-member staff, including her, is over the age of 40. She’s noticed significantly younger applicants when the group hires. The shift might be due in part to the physical labor involved in gardening, but an increased awareness about food production also likely contributes. She attributes the young generation’s interest to a broader discussion about the health affects of chemicals in food, such as pesticides used to help grow foods and preservatives present in processed foods.

“I think that this generation of young people is definitely a lot more concerned about where their food comes form than say, our parents’ generation. I think a lot of us grew up eating Velveeta cheese and drinking soda.

“And not that our parents were trying to do any harm, but when our parents were growing up, that was new and exciting — processed foods, easy foods to make — and they kind of lost … that connection to farming and gardening. And our generation is really picking that back up,” she said.

Here in Pennsylvania, urban agriculture’s popularity has continued to grow, said Leah Smith, member services manager for the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture. She, like Pezzino, ties the movement in with a focus on food — in particular, locally grown and organic food.

“We’ve definitely seen significant increase in the number of farmers’ markets in Western Pennsylvania and community-supported agriculture programs,” she said. Smith said that her organization now releases a directory to help the public get in touch with farms. According to Buy Fresh, Buy Local, an online farm-finding resource that encourages buying locally grown produce, there are 152 farms and 58 farmers’ markets in Southwestern Pa.

Despite the focus on farmers’ markets, Pezzino stresses that urban farms aren’t necessarily money-making operations — she could not think of an example of a U.S. urban farm profitable enough to be a full-time job for its operators. She cited the inability of plants to grow intensely enough to profitably produce food as one reason and food prices are too low as another. But urban farming is more about the community, she said.

“Urban agriculture — whether it’s backyard garden, whether you’re a community gardener or whether you’re on an urban farm — it’s really more about community development and community building than it is about starting a business and making a profit,” she said.

Plant to Plate sends food to the Squirrel Hill Community Food Pantry.

Becky Abrams, director of the pantry, explained that the Pitt group and other organizations help provide produce that the pantry would otherwise have to buy. The Squirrel Hill pantry receives donations through a letters campaign to spend $40,000 on fresh, locally-grown produce every year. She said that these donations also help provide variety for food pantry clients. The pantry serves people in the 15217 zip code who do not have enough to eat.

“I think it’s very important for community members and groups like Plant to Plate to contribute to food pantries and other organizations, because a lot of people don’t have good access to produce in their area because of income — they’re on a low income — or because of transportation — there might not be a farm stand in their area,” she said.

Plant to Plate also fosters community ties within its own organization and Oakland by hosting potlucks featuring dishes comprised of their produce. Seaman said that the number of students participating in the club can range from two to 10 or more depending on the project and season. Summer is slow because students are on vacation, but Plant to Plate keeps running through this important growing and harvesting season.

He also leaves the garden’s gate open so people can wander through. Many students and older residents of Oakland Avenue do, and express their appreciation. One such visitor is Sal Merante, the sharply dressed local with the handlebar mustache. Merante stops by almost every day to chat with Seaman.

But not everyone in the area is so supportive.

Seaman wandered around the plot pointing out the different plants, which are grown in rectangular wooden beds to keep the good soil in. Originally, the group had planted more beans in one bed, but vandals had come in one night and hacked many plants in half. Seaman estimated that the damage they did pulling out plants was about a bed’s worth of work. Their greenhouse has also been kicked in a few times.

More pressing than the issue of vandalism is the issue of apathy — many students aren’t aware that the garden exists at all.

“One of the issues I’ve seen is that the population’s so transient here anyway, I don’t think it matters to them if this is a garden or an empty plot of land,” he said, adding that the group plans to post a sign soon.

But Seaman said he focuses mainly on education. The garden serves as a place for students to learn outside the classroom.

“I think it fills a vacuum a little bit because there obviously are people who are interested in being involved in things like that. [Urban agriculture] is sort of a current trend in a lot of environmentalism.”

Grow Pittsburgh has its own teaching moments. In addition to regular classes, the organization uses its Braddock Farm to teach young people about agriculture.

Redding Jackson, an intern for Grow Pittsburgh, works with members of the youth program. She stood in front of the small, blue-tented farm stand where a few of the program’s participants shuffled the produce around.

Though many of the students don’t necessarily want to work in agriculture, the program gives them an invaluable lesson about food production, she said. She has also noticed that the garden — fenced in brightly colored stakes the children put in themselves — attracts a lot of community attention.

“Everyone seems really interested and wants to be involved and comes down and buys our produce here on Saturdays,” Jackson said.

Jackson, a student at New York University, said that she has noticed an abundance of urban farms in New York and that students — of both high school and college age — have shown interest in working there.

Pezzino credits the recent popularity of urban farming in particular with more people living in cities. According to the USDA, people now grow 15 percent of the world’s food supply in city settings — often in vacant lots or on rooftops.

However, urban gardens present a fundamental challenge: finding space to grow the plants. Pezzino said that Pittsburgh has a side-lot program through which aspiring farmers can obtain a lot next to their house. The city also offers garden waivers, by which growers can use city-owned land. But if the property is private and left delinquent or not cared for, the farmer-to-be must contact the owner for permission.

Seaman said Plant to Plates acquired its land through a green initiative a few years back, when the group’s founder obtained a $5,000 grant from the Mascaro Center for Sustainable Innovation, which seeks to encourage people and organizations that focus on sustainability. The rest of the funds come from Student Government Board allocations and sometimes Seaman’s own pocket.

From a logistical standpoint, urban farms can encounter several difficulties. Often, farmers need to use raised beds or purchase soil to create space for plants to grow, Pezzino said. She also explained that it’s best if the lot gets eight hours of sunlight, but growers should find a place with at least six. Water can be another issue, as growers need a water source as well as permission to use it.

Plant to Plate utilizes raised beds to keep the good soil the group has purchased in the garden. Its garden also gets a fair amount of sunlight, and its members arrange the layout so the large plants don’t overshadow the small ones. The University provides the group’s water.

Despite the difficulties that come with urban agriculture, Seaman said he is happy to do the work he does in the Oakland plot and doesn’t find it all that strenuous.

“I guess that’s the point of urban agriculture — it’s pretty easy to do ultimately, as long as you just put a little bit of time into it,” he said.