A taste of authentic China

I’m going to let you all in on a little secret: General Tso’s Chicken is not Chinese… I’m going to let you all in on a little secret: General Tso’s Chicken is not Chinese food.

Sure, it’s a popular dish at Oakland Avenue’s cache of Chinese restaurants. But allow me to reiterate — General Tso’s Chicken is not Chinese food.

By now you’re probably looking at my byline. “Hirsch,” you think to yourself, “that certainly doesn’t seem Chinese. Why should I believe her?”

Simple. In August of 2009, I moved to Shanghai to begin a year-long study abroad program in China. Although based in the Middle Kingdom’s most international city, I traveled extensively throughout the country — north to Beijing and Harbin, west to Inner Mongolia and Xi’an, south to the minority villages of the Guangxi province and finally out to Taiwan. In all my searching, Mr. Tso — supposedly named after the Qing Dynasty general Zuo Zongtang — was nowhere to be found.

I instead treated my western-trained tongue to an amazing selection of authentic Chinese food — food so savory it brought a grin to my lips, so spicy my taste buds went into hiding and haven’t returned.

So if you’re sick of ordering General Tso’s every time — and trust me, the woman behind the counter taking your order is too — be adventurous and try some of the following at Taiwan Cafe, Sushi Boat or Szechuan Express:

Eggplant dishes: I hated eggplant before I left for China, but then a dish roughly translated as “fish-flavored eggplant” rocked my world. Its melt-in-your-mouth richness made it an instant favorite of the foreigners trying to adjust to their new diets. Translated as “Eggplant with Garlic Sauce” at both Taiwan Cafe and Szechuan Express, the dish isn’t as sweet as what I’m used to, so I’d suggest trying their eggplant and pork combination instead.

Mongolian Beef: Sushi Boat surprised me with this one. Because the owners are not from Japan but Fujian, a coastal city in southern China, I’d suggest ordering off the Chinese menu the next time you visit. Specifically, I adored the Mongolian Beef dish — tender strips of savory meat mixed with sweet onions and scallions felt like home to my China-yearning stomach.

Mapo Tofu/Bean Curd: The “ma” in Mapo Tofu comes from the Chinese adjective for numbing spiciness, a main characteristic of Sichuan cuisine. It’s offered at each of the above-mentioned restaurants at varying levels of intensity. Szechuan Express’ is the spiciest — not altered for an American’s pain threshold — while Taiwan Cafe’s and Sushi Boat’s will be more palatable for most readers. But tread carefully at the latter. When I asked how spicy their version was, the Sushi Boat owner winked wickedly at me, saying he might “add a little bit” if he thought I could handle it.

Sautéed Green Beans: Another foreigner favorite, the beans are sauteed in honey and soy sauce to crunchy perfection and then topped with hot peppers and garlic.

These dishes will never be as delicious as their China counterparts, but, in addition to ordering the food itself, there are certain steps you can take to make the experience of eating at Taiwan Cafe, Sushi Boat or Szechuan Cafe a bit more authentic.

First: Go with friends. Chinese meals are meant to be shared. As the flavors of individual dishes can be rather concentrated and overwhelming, you only do yourself a disservice by going alone. Case in point: Last time I was at Taiwan Cafe, a Chinese student asked me with a rather accusatory tone, “Why are you ordering takeout?” I sheepishly answered that I had to study. Now I know better — from then on I made a point of making my dinners an actual meal, not just a dine-and-dash.

Second: Ditch the fork and learn how to use chopsticks. In Chinese dining, you’re rarely served a large steak or unwieldy vegetable — everything is bite-size and thus perfect for eating with the more authentic utensils. If you find them difficult to use, try placing your hands higher to increase dexterity. Also, I like to rub my chopsticks together in a motion similar to sharpening knives to eliminate unwanted wood shavings and splinters.

Third: If you’re 21 or older, pair your meal with a cold Tsingtao, the national beer of China, or if not, order a tapioca milk tea — both sold at Taiwan Cafe. I didn’t understand the bubble tea phenomenon when I first arrived in China. As a “texture eater,” I decided that marble-sized goo on the bottom of an incredibly sweet drink was not for me. But it turns out that the milk helps coat your stomach and prevents the irritation greasy American Chinese food might cause. I normally order black tea but sometimes get the taro flavor for a twist.

Fourth: Don’t be afraid to make a little noise. It’s perfectly acceptable — and even considered a compliment — to slurp loudly and burp during a meal. Soup can be drained right from your bowl, too.

So, there you have it. China may not have the esteemed culinary reputation of Europe, but delicious meals can be found if you’re armed with the right knowledge and a bit of courage. And if I see you walking down Oakland Avenue with a container of General Tso’s or Lo Mein in your hand, be assured that I will march you back up the street to correct your mistake.