Pittsburgh puts a pricy spin on Italian

‘ Legends of the North Shore 500 E. North Ave. #1 412-321-8000 ‘ ‘ ‘ A great meal involves… ‘ Legends of the North Shore 500 E. North Ave. #1 412-321-8000 ‘ ‘ ‘ A great meal involves more than just the food on your plate. It’s the whole experience of waiters bringing steaming dishes, the hubbub of guests moving, clinking glasses and talking. ‘ ‘ ‘ When my date and I got inside the BYOB restaurant Legends of the North Shore, everyone was engrossed in coversation. The waiter brought focaccia bread to the table, and I tried to drown the conversation in olive oil. ‘ ‘ ‘ The restaurant has the setup of an old-time diner, with an exposed kitchen surrounded by a crowded dining area of about 20 tables. Reservations are recommended and not always easy to make. Gourmet pizzas and calzones dot the menu, and pasta with red marinara sauce, or ‘mama’s gravy,’ let us know we were in the safe hands of an Italian matriarch. ‘ ‘ ‘ The name, Legends, references Pittsburgh sports history. Pictures of the Immaculate Reception hang right next to a shrine to Bill Mazeroski. This restaurant is definitely Pittsburgh. ‘ ‘ ‘ Focaccia finished, my date and I decided to try the mussel appetizer ($8.95). Legends prepares mussels in a red sauce. The mussels looked good, but on first taste they failed the test. The spices were overpowering. Everything tasted musty, burnt almost from the blend of too much garlic and oregano. ‘ ‘ ‘ My date and I went with the Cajun mahi-mahi, blackened on top of polenta and garnished with an olive tapenade ($20). It was a special of the day, and given Legends’ proximity to the fish markets, I was hoping for a fresh catch. We were in luck. ‘ ‘ ‘ The fish was perfectly cooked, flaking off and bringing with it Cajun spices and a great Mediterranean tapenade. The polenta created a nice base for the citrus of the olives and the Cajun spices.’ ‘ ‘ ‘ We balanced the fish with something straight out of mama’s kitchen: penne alla vodka ($14.95), a creamy vodka sauce flavored with prosciutto, Italian ham, spicy red pepper and garlic. Although the sauce was thinner than I like, it had some great flavors. The prosciutto really came out and wasn’t overpowered by the garlic and other spices.’ ‘ ‘ ‘ We passed on dessert, instead enjoying a cup of coffee and finishing our bottle of wine ($2 per glass corking fee).’ ‘ ‘ ‘ Overall, Legends is an Italian diner. The specials are insightful and interesting, but it’s not gourmet. It’s comfort food for a price that you should get gourmet.’ ‘ ‘ ‘ Thankfully, there is a remedy for the high prices. Monday through Thursday, the restaurant offers discounts. Thursday is ladies night, and for $15, ladies can get a full meal. On Wednesday, the restaurant will double a pasta portion, throw in a salad for two and settle for $22. ‘