A taste of Italy in the middle of Oakland

Underneath an awning of green, white and red rests one of Oakland’s greatest treasures, the… Underneath an awning of green, white and red rests one of Oakland’s greatest treasures, the Groceria Merante.’ Situated at the corner of Bates and McKee streets, Groceria Merante takes students through time, when Oakland was not a student haven, but a tightly knit immigrant community. Founded underneath the Schenley Bridge by Pasquale Merante two generations ago, Pasquale’s original groceria has moved and been passed down to his son, Italo, to his two daughters. Julie Durantte, 41, co-owns the business with her sister Filomena Lies, 45.’ ‘When we first moved here, this store was a tailor’s shop.’ In 1974, this was a dirt floor,’ recalled Durantte amidst the isles of fire-roasted red peppers, green olives soaking in brine and long strands of homemade pasta.’ Now a long way from an earthen floor, Merante’s is complete with refrigerators stocked full of homemade wedding soup and neon signs that hang on the deli case. Customers will find sandwich Swiss and the more exotic tipo gennoveta or imported parma Italian prosciutto, which are Italian meats flaked with peppercorns and other spices.’ Merante’s does not just have a local following.’ Mike Wiencek, a construction worker, drives in at least twice a month from Washington, Pa. for the grocery’s biggest seller: homemade sausage.’ Crafted with love by the sisters’ uncle, Salvatore Merante, the hot sausage is purported to taste better than anything available at Giant Eagle. ‘When Sal makes his hot sausage, he coarse grinds it. With this you can taste the actual pork.’ It’s just not done like that commercially,’ said Wiencek. Often seen walking around Oakland with his impeccably trimmed handle bar mustache, Uncle Sal, as he is called, is a staple of the Oakland community, as is the rest of the Merante clan.’ Uncle Sal is as old fashioned as they come, always ensuring that his meat is all meat, not like packaged sausage, which Durantte claims is ‘filled with pig’s eyes.’ Employees move swiftly to prepare for the morning rush, cutting cheese for their signature, loaf-of-bread length hoagies.’ ‘It’s the very opposite of corporate ‘mdash; we have a lot of people who just hang out,’ said Durantte. As the last slice of Swiss fell off the machine, retired Pitt Professor Jim DeAngelis walked in from a recent trip to France, chatting amicably with the ladies.’ ‘I’ve been eating all this Euro stuff. I could use a fix of roast beef. You know that American thing,’ he said.’ ‘ From Italian sausage to turkey and roast beef, the deli case is often a place where customers indulge in more than just meats and cheeses.’ For nearly 20 minutes, the whole store was crowded with voices, and conversation became storytelling. Patrons and employees alike were caught up in the most important function of a neighborhood market: communication.’ This is a place to catch up with family and friends, where talk blends in with the smell of fresh bread and spicy saut’eacute;ed peppers wafting from the back. Italian families forsake their warm cozy homes, taking a cold, blistery walk to Merante’s. ‘[There’s] an old man who somehow places his bags upon his shoulder, takes his cane and slowly makes his way to and from our store,’ said Durantte.’ Italian women, who frequent on the weekends, banter with younger student shoppers.’ The teasing is important, as it helps students realize that they are not the sole inhabitants of Oakland.’ They should recognize its cultural past. At about 9:45 a.m., Pasquale ‘Pat’ Pizzonia throws the door open with gusto.’ Dressed warmly in Steelers gear, he hoists his freshly baked bread from Rimini’s through the door. It’s a business relationship that goes back some 30 years.’ Pizzonia was driving through Oakland on his delivery route when the brightly colored Italian flag caught his eye.’ The business partnership began immediately. ‘ ‘The first loaf was free,’ said Pizzonia said. ‘You know, we Italians got to stick together.’ Julie headed to the back counter as she readied herself for the huge lunch rush.’ She reached for a cornucopia of savory meats, salty cheeses and hot peppers to put on her Italian hoagies.’ She explained just how popular these sandwiches are.’ ‘We start off with about 100 loaves a day.’ By lunchtime, we’re almost all gone. If you want one, call ahead,’ she said. Oakland, like other parts of Pittsburgh, is slowly becoming more corporate, often losing the touches of community and family that make areas like Pitt so interesting.’ Merante’s is a chance to explore the old world through culinary travel ‘mdash; and students can even do so between classes.’