Squirrel Hill secret could be “your place”

Set back from the street by an abnormally wide expanse of graying sidewalk, the exterior of New… Set back from the street by an abnormally wide expanse of graying sidewalk, the exterior of New Dumpling House on Murray Avenue does not scream ‘Delicious food and serenity!’ But it is as laid-back a restaurant experience as you are likely to find. The atmosphere lends a certain something to the cuisine. At first glance, the decor of New Dumpling House is remarkably similar to other Chinese food restaurants. A cashier’s desk greets customers at the entrance, distracting you as you simultaneously register the worrying half-empty tables and the flush of small plants that decorate the perimeter of the room. However, as my date and I slid into our booth and considered the ‘Lunch Menu’ (not to be confused with the ‘Main Menu’), it became clear that this restaurant had a lot more to offer. New Dumpling House serves a wide array of sushi, traditional meals and favorite dishes. If there were any doubts as to food quality, smells wafting from the kitchen dispelled them. Without asking, our waitress bustled over with a steaming pot of tea and whipped out her notepad. Ravenous and still trying to take in the full breadth of the menu, we asked for a few more minutes. We quickly parsed the midday offerings. Though there were entrees that came with both miso soup and a green salad, we decided on two dishes with fewer accompanying courses. The orange chicken ($5.25) was marked as a specialty ‘mdash; its description ending ‘Try it, you will like it.’ ‘ With such assurance, it was impossible to resist. In addition, we ordered the mixed vegetables with garlic sauce ($6.25), not actually an option on the menu, but one that our waitress said wouldn’t be a problem to make. Both entrees were marked with the telltale chili pepper that warned of ensuing heat, and came with a choice of egg roll or soup (wonton, hot-and-sour or egg drop) and white, brown or fried rice. Our menus were whisked away as soon as we finished ordering, and we turned our attention to tea and fried wonton noodles. After we’d worked our way through a quarter pot of tea, the egg rolls arrived, still hot from their adventure through the deep fryer. Wicked hot and crispy, the egg rolls had a good crunch but only average flavor ‘mdash; the cabbage and carrot filling were not up to the wilting effects of a hot oil bath. Setting those aside, we made way for our entrees. As our waitress set the steaming dishes on the table, I could smell the searing heat of hot peppers. Before we could dive in, however, we waited several excruciating minutes for two sets of chopsticks. Properly equipped, we tipped a little of both the orange chicken and the mixed vegetables over a bed of brown rice. The wholesomeness of brown rice complemented the tangerine-flavored, deep-fried delicacy that was the orange chicken. Though incredibly flavorful, the dish was not spicy and the accompanying spears of broccoli soaked up too much sweetness to be edible, especially as the dish cooled. The mixed veggies, on the other hand, were bright and savory. The garlic added a nice punch to the palate, although, again, the dish was disappointingly mild. We lingered over lunch, switching between dishes and perfecting our chopstick dexterity, picking up single grains of rice. Our waitress watched from afar, coming by once to check on us and fill our water glasses just before we thought of asking for more. After we sipped the last of our tea and chatted for a while, our waitress brought the check and two fortune cookies, thanking us for coming. Though many end up at New Dumpling House by chance, inspired by a sense of pedestrian adventure while strolling along Murray, the restaurant merits becoming ‘your place.” Stop by. You won’t regret it.