Garam Masala: gem of South Oakland

Garam…Garam Masala 416 Semple St. 412-802-0890 $8 to $11

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Take a walk deep into South Oakland and you’ll find a hidden treasure: Garam Masala.

Walking down that stretch of Semple Street, hungry diners might be apprehensive about entering just any restaurant. However, Garam Masala assuages any doubts as soon as you walk in.

The smartly decorated and bold dining room is filled with dark wooden tables that glint in the moody red lighting. The silver and glassware, already laid out, give you the impression that the humble exterior conceals food fit for royalty.

The wait staff was at the table as soon as I was seated. Garam Masala runs a discount menu from 4 to 6 p.m., and although it was 5 p.m., the restaurant was mostly empty.

I ordered the paneer kulcha, which is naan flatbread filled with cheese, and ginger garlic chicken, which was described on the menu as “Simply the Best!” and recommended by the server. I ordered a mango lassi to keep me occupied while I waited for the meal.

My dining pal ordered chana masala, chickpeas with ginger. Both of us asked for a seven on a spicy heat scale of one to 10.

For some reason, it surprises me that I can take a seven without crying. Friends have warned me that typical American diners underestimate how spicy Indian dishes can be and, in the end, are unable to finish their meals, even though they are still hungry.

However, even if seven had turned out to be too hot for my tastes, the server checked up on us consistently, and our glasses were always filled with water.

The ginger garlic chicken was excellent. The meat was tender, and the sauce contrasted admirably with the rice. The ginger and garlic were both balanced, accompanying the taste rather than barreling through it.

My partner’s chana masala turned out spicier than my dish, but it seems that had more to do with the thinner substance of the chickpeas in comparison to the solid chicken taste in the ginger garlic chicken.

The portions for both main courses were plentiful, a little more than we needed. I ran out of rice before I ran out of chicken, but this is usual for me when eating Indian food. That’s where the naan comes in.

The paneer kulcha was a complement to the main course and I always enjoy naan. If you don’t order it with a meal, you’re missing out on one of the simplest pleasures around. There was cheese inside the paneer naan, but I consider “stuffed,” as the menu describes it, too strong of a word.

The mango lassi, a yogurt and fruit juice drink, was sweet and simple, tasting less artificial than lassis I’ve had in the past.

The best part about a lassi is that it smothers spiciness better than water. It’s a good drink for first-time Indian diners who are unfamiliar with the heat scale.

Finally, my pal ordered rice pudding for dessert, which turned out great. The rice grains were all firm, and the pudding actually stuck to the rice. It was a sweet way to end the meal.

For its elegant dining area, the atmosphere is laid-back at Garam Masala. I was right at home walking in and choosing my table.

It’s a fine restaurant for taking a break and just catching up with friends, but it also serves an excellent meal for an affordable price. However, you should probably call before heading over, since the hours have been shifting as of late.

The next time you’re in South Oakland, stop in for dinner. The next time you’re in North Oakland, dinner is worth the detour.

All around, making Garam Masala a priority is a decision you won’t regret.