Tazza D’Oro gets espresso just right

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Espresso drink purists can finally rest easy. Or maybe rest isn’t the right word. After visiting Tazza D’Oro in Highland Park, espresso aficionadas might experience heart palpitations, as it’s difficult to order just one drink. The concentration and finesse that go into each concoction set Tazza on par with an Italian bar.

If you’ve never been to an Italian bar, there are other ways of taking note that a coffee place pays close attention to its drinks. At Tazza D’Oro, the wall behind the counter proudly displays certifications for the baristas.

After visiting Tazza’s website, I discovered that two of those baristas competed at a regional contest, which asked the contestants to make 12 drinks in under 15 minutes, in addition to demonstrating their coffee knowledge. It’s great to find a place that’s as crazy about coffee as I am.

I ordered a cappuccino, and the barista quickly asked which kind of cappuccino I wanted. The traditional six-ounce? Not entirely sure what “traditional six-ounce” meant, I agreed instead of asking questions. I actually wanted something a little larger, but I didn’t think about how small six ounces really is until I got my cup.

However, it was one of the best errors I’ve ever made. The drink was excellent. The proportion of espresso to milk to foam was top-notch, and the espresso itself was a perfect pull: the sweet spot between weak and bitter.

Let me explain. Espresso isn’t supposed to be bitter. The average corporate coffee drinker might find espresso too strong, even unpalatable. A number of factors explain the poor quality of espresso at a branch of your average coffee chain.

The best espresso shot relies on a small window for brewing time, water temperature that has a range of a few degrees and high quality of coffee beans.

When a well-trained barista pulls an espresso shot, the result is strong, never bitter, with a telltale light brown foam known as crema on the surface. For the first time since traveling in Italy, I had an exceptional cappuccino at Tazza D’Oro.

My coffee companion ordered a latte. You can see how much attention a barista gives to a latte by looking at the surface of the drink: This latte had a telling pattern of foamy milk that mingled with the espresso.

This foam forms when the milk is added to the espresso, although some places do the reverse. The latte was similar in quality to the cappuccino, with a measured proportion of espresso to milk.

Tazzo D’Oro also has a menu of mostly breakfast-style food, although it’s somewhat overshadowed by the superior espresso drinks.

If you go to Sunday Brunch like I did, you’ll find a selection of unnamed sandwiches and wraps. I got a wrap of bacon, egg, tomato and cheese. It was a nice take on brunch, balancing the sweeter tomatoes with the saltier bacon. My pal got a similar sandwich on a croissant. It was similarly a good choice, combining simple flavors into a satisfying meal.

The atmosphere is casual. We didn’t have an assigned server, although someone did bring us our drinks and our meal. If you rely on the compassion of employees to enjoy a meal, don’t worry. The baristas are attentive and helpful when you order.

The inside is nicely furnished, with smart and simply painted walls and ceiling housing comfortable wooden chairs and tables. Since its all one room, you’ll find yourself changing the volume of your voice as the conversations around you ebb and flow.

It has a busy but familiar feel, without the overpowering indie music you’ll find in many coffee shops. For me, this made the experience better. By removing the clutter of servers, music and esoteric wall decorations, coffee and a wrap became more personal.

The regular coffee places work well enough for caffeine fixes. However, if you look at espresso drinks as more than that, discover a new level of superiority at Tazza D’Oro.

And remember: Drinking espresso doesn’t have to be painful. Tazza D’Oro shows you just how sweet this highly concentrated beverage can be.