Belgian beer taps into city’s thirst

Sharp Edge

302 South St. Clair Street

Friendship

(412) 661-3537

Mon-Sat: 10 a.m. –… Sharp Edge

302 South St. Clair Street

Friendship

(412) 661-3537

Mon-Sat: 10 a.m. – midnight

Sun: noon – 10 p.m.

Pittsburgh is a place that doesn’t try very hard to promote its charms. Take Sharp Edge, regarded as the best Belgian beer bar in the U.S. by the comprehensive “Petit Fute Guide to Belgian Beer.” Seriously, it’s right here in Pittsburgh, and hardly anyone on campus ever talks about it.

Maybe it’s because the majority of students haven’t yet joined the 21 club, or maybe it’s because it’s easier to slap dollar bills down for $1 drafts in Oakland than spend $9 on a fine beer.

But it’s also because Pittsburgh likes to keep its best assets under the radar. It’s unfortunate that most of us are ignorant to the Sharp Edge, which isn’t just an impressively stocked bar but a fantastic restaurant. But now you know, and you don’t need to be 21 to enjoy the food – though the sight of such a remarkable bar will make you wish you’d have crossed that bridge long ago.

Sharp Edge, in Friendship right off of Baum Boulevard, is a loud and busy place for happy hours, business meetings, impressing your beer-savvy friends, pleasing your Dad on his birthday and enjoying a casual date. The spacious, pub-style front room hosts the bar and various tables where customers are invited to enjoy an entire meal from the extensive menu or just sip on drinks until midnight. The back room of the restaurant houses only tables.

There’s nothing pretentious about the godlike intelligence of the waitstaff regarding all things beer at Sharp Edge, so ask questions if you’ve never heard of something. The experienced barman will help you choose from a gigantic selection of Belgians, nitros, various imports and micros.

Don’t fret if you’re not of age: The food at Sharp Edge is so good that unless you’re a major beer fanatic, the world-class selection is forgettable as long as you’re biting into their famed Black and Bleu Buffalo Bites ($8.95) or a panini. It’s worth noting that the enticing menu is well-designed and a pleasure to peruse, as each dish is described in such detail that you can almost taste the words.

Sharp Edge offers appetizers, munchies, soups, salads, desserts and various alternatives for entrees, depending on whether you’re in the mood for a juicy sandwich or a plate of pasta. Some of the items have a Belgian or beer-related twist, such as the Belgian lamb, beef and bacon burger topped with smoked gouda cheese and stone-ground mustard sauce ($8.50) or the reportedly delicious Hop Devil potato soup in a bread bowl ($6.95).

After tasting liquid heaven in a Belgian Stella Artois ($4.72) served in its authentic gold-rimmed chalice, we skipped the appetizers and headed straight for the entrees. The soups and starters range from $2.50 to $33.95, most of them priced around $7 or $8. If you want to spend a little more on your meal, choose from staples like Provolone Wedges ($5.95) or Flemish Onion Soup ($4.95) flavored with a Belgian ale called Augustijn, which is similar to the more popular French version.

You can also grab some “munchies,” such as the Saint Louis Taster Rack ($7.95), a sampling of cider-braised ribs coated in honey-barbeque sauce, and the Smoked Chicken and Poblano Quesadilla ($9.95).

As for entrees, you can order sandwiches, paninis, pastas, gourmet pizzas or the house specialties like chicken marinated in raspberries and amber ale, then broiled with Framboise vinaigrette ($14.95) or a mushroom-topped 12-oz. New York strip steak ($15.95).

We ordered the fish and chips ($13.95), a barbeque pulled-pork panini ($6.95) and a panini with roast pork and brie ($7.50), with an extra helping of fresh-cut french fries ($1.50). You can choose from other sides like Bloomin’ Onion Petals ($4.50) and Sharp Edge’s own spin on garlic mashed potatoes ($2.50).

The paninis, which were served on square, mustard-colored plates were outstanding: Imagine juicy meat and cheese snug between two pieces of herb focaccia bread. The barbeque pulled pork was simple but tasty, and the helping of pork was generous and tender, its stronger taste meshing well with mild smoked gouda.

The roast pork on the second panini was perfectly cooked like the first, and the coleslaw was creamy but crisp. The creamy brie toned down the caramelized onions and horseradish, which wasn’t overly spicy.

The fish and chips, not served in the unhealthy but traditional style of wrapping them in newspaper, was served in a basket with the fish, Atlantic cod, seated over a generous helping of fries. The fried fish, battered in Sharp Edge’s house beer batter, was less greasy than you would find it across the Atlantic, but nonetheless it was juicy and so large that it was unable to be finished in one sitting. The fish and chips makes for an excellent leftover.

Sharp Edge has a special every day of the week, including daily mystery beers ($3.00), $5 off on large pizzas (normally $10.95-$21.95) on Mondays, and $.35 wings on Tuesdays, the latter two running from 4 p.m. – close. Find more information on their Web site, www.sharpedgebeer.com.