Chefs with tricks and food with kick, all for a reasonable price

Nakama Japanese Steakhouse

1611 East Carson St.

www.eatatnakama.com

The Japanese steakhouse is not a new concept.

You order some combination of meats, they bring out the ingredients, the chef does some tricks, they cook the food in front of you, the chef does more tricks, there’s fire, and, in the end, you get an immense quantity of food. In fact, it’s remarkable how little variation there is from place to place.

Nakama, a relatively recently opened Japanese steakhouse on the South Side, is in many respects exactly what one might expect. All the steps are the same; the pattern’s the same; even the chef’s tricks are the same as every other Japanese steakhouse. Nakama sets itself apart, though, with some of the little things.

The hibachi-cooked food is not all that different, mostly because cooking the same foods on the same surfaces is not a recipe for variety. They have some nice variations on the theme, with scallops and other seafood as menu choices, but ultimately the food’s what it is.

The prize at Nakama is the sushi. Many a Pittsburgher has lamented the lack of good sushi in the city, and restaurants such as Big Burrito’s Umi have sprung up to address this need. Nakama is primarily a steakhouse, but it’s worth the trip for a sushi fan, especially for their Hawaiian-style roll, a strange and beautiful sushi concoction of flavors and ingredients.

One of the things working in favor of Nakama is that, aside from the sushi, there’s nothing specifically Japanese about it. That’s a pleasant contrast to its suburban counterparts that are often hammed up enough to appear as a guest star in a Bruce Lee movie. There’s no pretension that the owners, Becky and Bob Gomes, have some magical insight into Japanese culture that one can taste in the surf and turf. They’re just two people who like food and drink and thought the South Side could use a steakhouse.

Decor at Nakama is about five years behind the rest of the design world — in other wordsit’s typically Pittsburgh. The bare ceiling with ducts exposed is still pretty sleek by Pittsburgh standards, but it amplifies a roaring din that makes conversation essentially impossible. The noise is actually the most unpleasant thing about Nakama, and it’s not helped by the many stylish patrons at the reasonably good bar, which features Japanese beers like Kirin Ichiban that go well with heavily spiced food.

Even though it’s not exactly new anymore, Nakama is still playing the part of the trendy eatery, with very Pittsburghian values. It makes a huge point of the fact that one can grab a quick bite and a beer at the bar if one is in a hurry, and birthdays are celebrated with pyrotechnics and a gong that would be cheesy if it wasn’t so weird. The private party room is another big draw, clearly playing to the trendy clientele of the South Side.

Nakama’s not one of those places that’s likely to be your favorite restaurant in the world. But it is one of those places you might like to go to on special occasions — like on a date or when family comes to town and wants to buy you dinner — because you’ll have a good time and you won’t leave hungry.