Weisel: Resolving the hard vs. soft-shell taco debate

By Elizabeth Weisel

There is a divide in our diners, a schism in our supermarkets, a rift in our restaurants, a… There is a divide in our diners, a schism in our supermarkets, a rift in our restaurants, a fracture in our food. This split revolves around one question: hard- or soft-shell taco?

The battle for supremacy between the two wraps has yet to be resolved. But which one is better quality? The question merits examination in three categories: handling, taste and texture.

The first round will evaluate the handling of the taco in relation to its ingredients and its eater. The soft shell’s main advantage is the way it skillfully wraps itself around its filling to minimize the loss of ingredients. Assuming that the taco is filled to the brim with meat, lettuce, cheese, salsa and even guacamole, a solid base is necessary for strength. It lessens the need for napkins and allows for smooth eating.

The hard-shell taco takes a bit more finesse to handle. Although its solid exterior forms a perfect base to successfully pocket any ingredient thrown its way and the condiments sit in the shell like books on a shelf, ready to be lifted and eaten, the likelihood for spillage is greater. Thus, the taco must be handled carefully to keep its insides intact. If there’s a particularly bad blow to the shell it will crack, though condiments such as guacamole work wonderfully as adhesives so it can get back in the game.

In the battle of handling, then, the soft shell has the advantage due to its wrapping abilities. Things may change in the next round, however, when we examine taste.

The positive aspect of the soft shell is that the doughy taste of the tortilla brings out the rich ingredients. However, the tortilla flavor can become a detriment if taken too far. Sometimes it’s simply too dull and overpowers the spicy ingredients with its blandness. The tortilla is both the handicap and the advantage for the soft shell.

The argument for the hard shell is simple: It has more salt. And if American cooking has taught us anything, it’s that a little more salt makes everything taste better. The spices of the shell complement the flavors held inside and add an extra kick to their punch. Yet, the flavor of the hard shell does not overwhelm the taco because it brings to mind tortilla chips, which are already tailored to match salsa, guacamole and even meat.

It’s clear that the hard-shell taco wins the battle of taste. One more round examining texture will break the tie and determine the better shell.

The soft-shell taco relies on a foundation of the flat, malleable tortilla to maintain its shape. However, over a long period of time a soft-shell taco will find itself going, well, soft. The thin shell becomes soggy with the juices of its innards and starts to lose its grip around its filling. Then when it finally gets eaten, the bite turns into mush in your mouth and the taco lacks any defining texture.

The hard shell, on the other hand, is all about the crunch — that precious sound heard in Kit Kat commercials, from the guy eating popcorn behind you at the movie theater or in the first bite of an apple. As eaters, we savor the crunch, the satisfying tone that tells us we have made a dent in our meal, that we are on our way to quelling our hunger. The crunch is aural proof that we are actively eating, that we are interacting with our meal. When you order a taco with a hard shell, you are ordering an experience.

It is therefore the crunch that wins the last battle for the hard-shell taco. Though the soft-shell taco had the advantage in handling, it might as well just be a fajita or burrito. The hard shell is declared winner of the match by its explosive taste and crunchy texture.

And thus the schism is sealed, the rift is repaired, the fracture is fused and the hard shell taco has emerged as superior.

Contact Elizabeth at [email protected]