Kevin’s Deli studies sandwiches on campus

By Margaret Krauss

Kevin’s Deli is a chance to be a part of something larger than yourself, just by eating… Kevin’s Deli is a chance to be a part of something larger than yourself, just by eating delicious food.’ ‘I’m not just out to make a buck,’ said the restaurant’s namesake, leaning with one elbow on the edge of the 2.5-foot counter of his deli. ‘I’m out to make a friend. That’s just how I am.’ Take a right at the main entrance of Webster Hall, at the intersection of Fifth and Bellefield avenues, and follow the faint hint of grease in the air as you near your destination. On the right-hand side of the hall, in the only door frame without an accompanying door, resides Kevin’s Deli. Because most of the suites in Webster Hall are large and home to businesses, I expected Kevin’s Deli to be a sit-down place, a nook where one could take shelter from the storm, sip a cup of coffee and savor delectable breakfast fare. Kevin’s is all of these things, you just have to stand to do it.’ Peering around the edge of the doorway, the narrow deli made space for a cold case stocked with a motley assortment of vitamin waters, sodas, applesauce and rice pudding. To the right, a silver, no-frills commercial refrigerator on the right-hand wall. There was just enough room for three or four people to stand in front of the deli case, filled with classic offerings of the tuna and chicken salad, sliced meats and greens. The window at the back of the room looked up at the pavement outside, people’s feet coasting by. The man at the grill looked up at my bleary-eyed compatriot and me and then back to the grill. ‘ ‘ ‘ We peered at the day’s specials (Reuben or tuna salad) and the sign board on the wall, which listed the deli’s breakfast and lunch options, classics that range in price from $2.50 to $6.75.’ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ With little hesitation, my companion and I ordered two breakfast sandwiches ‘mdash; a sausage, egg and cheese and one egg and cheese. As the eggs started to splutter, customers came in, and the deli worked processed several orders at once. Standing to the side I tried not to take out Webster Hall’s occupants with my backpack. In business since 1984, the deli didn’t become Kevin’s Deli until 2004. With the help of a fax machine, the owner’s of Kevin’s Deli are now trying to spread word about his business to University departments and students ‘mdash; well known for their appreciation for hot, affordable food. ‘You know, some people say, in business you have to be hard, mean, make all the money you can. I’m not like that.’ As he said so,’ my was popped down on the counter, wrapped efficiently in deli paper ‘mdash; two envoys of steaming happiness. ‘Is that all?’ asked Kevin, moving toward the register. He rang up our $6.50 bill ‘mdash; the two sandwiches and an orange-tangerine Life Water. He pulled out $3 of change and handed it to me with a smile. ‘Thanks for coming, I hope to see you here again, soon,’ he said. I assured him I would be. ‘And take this,’ he said, popping a slice of pound cake into the paper bag, ‘it’s my last piece.’ With that he picked up the phone and waved. My buddy and I retired to a nearby bench and tore through the deli paper. The perfect amount of cheese separated egg from toasty bread ‘mdash; a moderated dose of grease provided just the right note of comfort food while packing a protein punch.’ But more than anything, our breakfast carried the elusive note of good food made in good spirits.’