Murray Avenue’s upper crust

By STEVE KASZYCKI

Think New York and Chicago are the only places in America where you can get a superior… Think New York and Chicago are the only places in America where you can get a superior pizza? If so, you haven’t spent enough time on Murray Avenue in Squirrel Hill.

Pittsburgh has a number of top-notch pizza eateries, and several of the elite are within range of the University of Pittsburgh. Whether you take a five-minute drive, a 15-minute bus ride, or a 40-minute walk (perhaps most advisable, given the caloric nature of the delicacy), sumptuous pizza is waiting for you.

The most renowned and delicious is Aiello’s Pizza. Located at 2112 Murray Ave., next door to Zaw’s Asian Foods (outstanding cuisine from the far East), Aiello’s is an inauspicious edifice dominated by the oven area, with a bit of seating toward the back. A Pittsburgh establishment since 1978, Aiello’s is run by Giuseppe, “Joe,” Aiello, who first came to the Steel City in 1968. Joe, born in Sicily, started out at Mineo’s before opening his own restaurant.

One taste of Aiello’s signature dish will have you hooked. Joe’s crew prepares the bread and sauce fresh daily; cheeses and other toppings are high quality and generously applied. The pizza, thicker than that of some of the other places around, isn’t cheap. The 12-inch 8-cut starts at $9.10. It’s well worth the expense, though.

Many customers comment on the sumptuous crust, and they’re dead-on: The crust is neither thin nor thick, but rather in that mystical middle ground.

Just down the road, at 2128 Murray Ave., Mineo’s Pizza provides formidable competition (there seems to be a healthy rivalry between the two eateries). With a thinner crust and thick, gooey cheese, Mineo’s will satisfy your pizza craving. Slightly more expensive than Aiello’s (an 8 cut starts at $9.90), the restaurant has expanded seating and catering available.

Mineo’s has a history even richer than Aiello’s. Started in 1958 by Giovanni “John” Mineo, the establishment is run by brothers Dominic and John Mineo. Its success led to the opening of a second location in Mt. Lebanon, and Mineo’s offers to FedEx pizza anywhere in the country.

Of course, they have quite a developed fan base in the Pittsburgh area.

“They’re generous with their cheese, which is important, and their prices are reasonable,” says Pitt graduate Amanda Waltz. Loyal Mineo’s customer Nancy Bonenberger agrees, saying, “It’s just the combination of the cheese and the crust-it’s not too strong. It’s the best that I’ve had.”

If you like your pizza big, thin and floppy, then Lucci’s Pizza, at 1900 Murray Ave., is the place for you. A relative newbie to the neighborhood, Lucci’s opened up in June 2006.

“We make all of our dough and sauces fresh daily, using the finest of ingredients,” Dan Foster, a Lucci’s manager, says. “And each pizza is made to order, to your specifications.”

While the crust at Lucci’s is as thin as you’ll find, it remains fresh and tasty. The cheese is greasy and delicious. A single slice, priced at $2, is twice the size of most slivers, and is ample enough to provide a meal by itself.

Lucci’s doesn’t receive quite the same amount of press as Mineo’s or Aiello’s, but its pizza stands up well against all competition. Mondays bring 10% off with the presentation of a valid student ID, and Wednesday offers a $4.99 spaghetti special. Also, Lucci’s delivers.

But you’re not done yet. On the same road, at 2006 Murray Ave., Napoli Pizzaria offers a thicker crust and 17 different toppings, which come in generous portions. Napoli has been in business since 1973 and has a loyal following. Napoli, like Lucci’s, offers delivery.

For those not so eager to make the trek to Squirrel Hill, Oakland has a number of pizza joints. From Sorrento’s Pizza Roma, at 233 Atwood St, to Say Cheese!, at 3507 Cable Place, Oakland is hardly deficient in its offerings. There’s also an abundance of chains, including Domino’s, Papa John’s, Pizza Hut, and Vocelli’s. Of the chains, Pizza Hut is the best, but no chain can match the authenticity of Squirrel Hill’s elite.

So, grab a couple of friends and take a walk to Squirrel Hill. Through thick and thin (crust, that is), Murray Avenue has a pizza to satisfy your cravings.